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Walla Crag | ||
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Historic name | Walla-crag 1769 Wallow Crag 1776, 1867 |
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Elevation | 379 m (1,243 ft) | |
Prominence | 24 m (79 ft) | |
Parent Peak | Bleaberry Fell | |
Type of Rock | Andesite | |
Listing | Wainwright | |
Topo Map | OS Explorer OL4 | |
Coordinates | 54.581609 , -3.1203856 | |
OS Grid Ref. | NY 27684 21289 | |
what3words | powers.history.genius | |
Photo Gallery | Walla Crag/Gallery |
- Not the be confused with Wallow Crag, at Haweswater Reservoir
Walla Crag is a medium-sized fell with a plateau overlooking the expanse of Derwentwater and Keswick below its semi-lofty heights of 379 meters (1,243 feet). From the sweeping curves of the shoreline, from Keswick through to Calfclose Bay, the facade below the crag is that of the Great Wood, a sprawling mass of predominantly coniferous and, to a lesser extent, deciduous trees. Depending on from which angle one perceives Walla Crag, the rock protuberances become more apparent the further the eye is cast towards the summit. To the casual viewer, some trees seem to defy their very existence by growing out of nothing but sheer rock, or at least giving that appearance; balancing precariously, and teetering on the side of the crag face, flouting the laws of gravity. But, the world in which we live often throws us a curveball, and nature has a way of surprising us time and time again.
Walla Crag is not the loftiest of fells, but it certainly packs a punch, even though it is not a technical climb by any stretch of the imagination. There is, of course, more than one way to reach the summit. From Keswick, a stroll along the waterfront path up to Calfclose Bay is the warm-up to the main event. The choice of paths is limited, but it can be approached from the north-east via Castlerigg, or the south-west via Ashness Bridge. Depending on time, the ascent from Cat Gill provides a shorter, but steeper climb. Those wishing a longer, more strenuous hike can always enjoy the relaxing views from the plateau via High Seat (608 metres) and Bleaberry Fell (590 meters).
Whichever side you ascend from, the plateau edge becomes more apparent from the trees and vegetation that seem to grow in abundance here, a drystone wall separating this from the largely empty expanse of Low Moss and Bleaberry Fell. The treeless landscape of Low Moss looks barren in comparison, yet still beautiful in its own, subtle way. From the wall, a clearly defined path follows a well-trodden route to the summit, with several viewpoints to entice you along the way. With a few twists and turns, the open scenes across Derwentwater and beyond are plentiful and will not disappoint. Of Walla Crag, Wainwright describes it thus:
The pleasant Vale of Keswick, surely one of earth's sweetest landscapes, is surrounded by mountains of noble proportions with an inner circle of lesser fells which deserve more than the name foothills, each having strong individual characteristics, a definite and distinctive appearance, and a natural beauty all its own. Among these is Walla Crag, an eminence of intermingled rocks and trees overlooking the east shore of lovely Derwent Water: of moderate elevation yet steep, romantic, challenging. Seen from the lake the hoary top seems unattainable, yet it may be gained by the gentlest of ascents for the slopes beyond the upper fringe of crag descend easily, accompanied by Brockle Beck, almost to the streets of Keswick.[1][a]
The summit of Walla Crag is set back slightly from the plateau. It is recognisable as a rocky prominence surrounded by heather scrub, and bisected by the Walla Crag Trail path. The usual giveaway are the crowds of people that gather to take their photos and picnic for a time-out to reenergise after the climb. It is, after all, the pièce de résistance. The views are simply breathtaking and time should be taken to enjoy the stunning views on offer. Here are uninterrupted views across Derwentwater, taking in the majestic sights of Catbells, Causey Pike, Grisedale Pike, Whinlatter Forest, Bassenthwaite Lake, Skiddaw, Blencathra, to name but a few. There is a fissure in the crag called Lady's Rake. It is clearly visible from the ground, and in the realms of fantasy-fiction, looks like it was cleaved by a giant's axe! Firmly in the realms of reality, the tree-line now somewhat obscures this from view. Wainwright describes the summit as "delectable place for picnic, the heathery top is also a favourite viewpoint for Derwent water, seen directly below the long steep escarpment. A profusion of decayed tree stumps indicates that the summit, now bare, was at one time thickly wooded."[2]
Parking is by way of a pay and display in the Great Wood. This is owned by the National Trust. As always, the earlier you arrive, the better chance have of finding a spot, as spaces can certainly fill up fast.
Legends and traditions
The local legend has it this was the perilous route taken by the Countess of Derwentwater from her home on Lord's Island. This she did to evade capture from her pursuers, who had already apprehended her husband for his part in the Jacobite rising of 1715. Martineau's Complete Guide to the English Lakes, published in 1855, states:
"When the young Lord Derwentwater was captured for being "out" in 1715, his lady escaped, and saved her liberty and the family jewels (to use them on behalf of her husband) by clambering up one of the clefts of Wallabarrow Crag, since called the Lady's Rake. Every where are there traces of the unhappy family; even in the sky, where the aurora borealis is sometimes called, to this day, Lord Derwentwater's lights, because it was particularly brilliant the night after his execution."[3]
A sorry tale, reinforced by W.G. Collingwood's article titled The Home of the Derwentwater Family, published in 1904, where he discusses in detail the once grand historic home of the Derwentwaters. Here, he touches upon The Story of the Treasure, itself a telling of the Countess' escape from the comforts of their castle on the island at a time of the "mad rising in the north." Legends, traditions, and folk-lores. Call them what you will. They wouldn't be what they are without a little embellishment here or there, or at least the natural changes to a story that develops over time as it is passed down from generation to generation. With the Countess of Derwentwater, her legend portrays a frantic flight, collecting her "plate and jewels", but not out of fear of poverty or greed, but to "bribe the Whigs and buy her husband's safety."[4] She fled to London over the Rake, and in doing so lost many of her valuables along the way. Another variation of the story sees her flight up the gill (presumably Cat Gill) with an apron full of coins, most of which are scattered and lost when the apron strings break.[5]
History tells us that this legend is not so far from the truth as one would think, for a small hoard of 34 silver coins was found on the "north side of Cat[beck] Gill, which divides Walla Crag from Falcon Crag; south of the wall of the Great Wood and at a few yards from it, a short distance above where the wall takes a sudden bend northwards."[5] However, these coins from the reigns of Edward I and Edward II, bear a time span of some 400 plus years earlier than our Lady of Lord's Island. There is little imagination required to see how legends over time can change to suite a storyteller's needs.
The tragedy here, that of her pleading to the King for her husband's life, was for nought. He was found guilty and executed for his crimes of treason on 24 February 1716. Whilst this is actually true of James Radclyffe, 3rd Earl of Derwentwater, some elements of the Lady's Rake legend remain doubtful. The 3rd Earl, whilst having succeeded the family estates upon his father's death in 1705, didn't actually live in Cumberland, instead favouring his estates in Northumberland. He visited in 1710, probably staying at the Queen's Head hotel.[4][6] James' involvement in the 1715 Jacobite rebellion had nothing to do with Keswick,[7] nor the mansion on Lord's Island, which by that time had probably been in ruins by 1709,[4][8] making the Countess' flight up Lady's Rake when the legend states, a fiction more than it could be fact. There is so much more to this legend and the history that surrounds it. Before the 3rd Early, the family was a prominent figure in the area. The history of the Radclyffs and the Earls of Derwentwater alone covers several centuries, and could be the subject of many articles. Whilst some legends may be the precursor to actual historical events, many are simply enjoyable folk tales, which are just as much a part of the landscape as the lakes, tarns, and fells in which they romanticise.
Etymology
The 1st element, walla, appears to be problematic, according to Whaley, as it could be a dialectal adjective of wallow. In Wright's The English Dialect Dictionary, he mentions wallow as something 'indistinct in colour' (definition 4) and, relating to the weather, 'blowing a cold, strong and hollow wind' (definition 5).[9][10] Whaley goes on to list other, remote possible meanings, such as Old English walu (ridge or embankment)[11], and Old English wealh (Briton). The Anglo-Saxon Dictionary Online elaborates wealh further (foreigner, Celt, a Celt of Britain)[12], although these do seem to be unconnected with the terrain.
The 2nd element crag (rocky outcrop, rocky height, rugged steep cliff, rock) comes from Middle English crag, or the alternative spelling, cragge, which itself probably comes from Middle Irish crec, or Scottish Gaelic creag, brought over by the Scandinavians in the 10th century.[13]
Notes
- ↑ Please note that the page numbers given in Wainwrights Pictorial Guide are for the individual chapters of the book, due to the book not containing chronological page numbers.
References
Sources
- Bosworth, Joseph. (2014) An Anglo-Saxon Dictionary Online, edited by Thomas Northcote Toller et al., Faculty of Arts, Charles University.
- Collingwood, W.G. (1904). Transactions of the Cumberland & Westmorland Antiquarian & Archaeological Society. Kendal. Volume 4.
- Crosthwaite, J. Fisher (1874). The Last of the Derwentwaters. The Keswick Literary Society.
- Martineau, Harriet (1855). A Complete Guide to the English Lakes. Windermere: John Garnett.
- Thompson, W.N. (1904). Transactions of the Cumberland & Westmorland Antiquarian & Archaeological Society. Kendal. Volume 4.
- Wainwright, Alfred (2016). A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells Book Three: The Central Fells. Walkers (revised) edition. London: Frances Lincoln.
- Whaley, Diana (2006). A Dictionary of Lake District Place-Names. English Place-Name Society. School of English Studies, University of Nottingham.
- Wright, Joseph (1905). The English Dialect Dictionary. Volume 6 T–Z. London: Henry Frowde.