Bowder Stone



The Bowder Stone, also known as Bowderstone, is a natural wonder in its own right and a popular, highly photographed visitor attraction. Owned and in the care of the, this huge chunk of green-grey lava, 18 metres long by 8.18 metres high, and weighing approximately 1273 tonnes, is believed to have fallen from Bowder Crag above its current position as a result of a massive rock failure where thousands of rocks tumbled down the slope below the crag. The evidence of this is provided by the rock type of the boulder itself, the rock type of Bowder Crag and the distinctive structural, cross-sectional features on both, which show they are an exact match. This suggests that the boulder, without doubt, came from the crag above and not from other methods as described below.

The Bowder Stone can be found approximately one mile south of Grange on the B5289 Borrowdale road, which runs from Keswick, through Borrowdale and west towards Buttermere over Honister Pass. There is car park provided can fill up fairly quickly, and a gravel path to the boulder is situated from the lower tier. There is a minor incline as it passes the abandoned Quay Foot Quarry on the left. This quarry consists of green slate, used extensively in 19th century development of Keswick, and most likely other nearby villages or hamlets. After the quarry, the path levels out and the boulder is just a short walk from there onwards.



Etymology
The name Bowder is most likely a dialectal version of the word boulder - the boulder stone or boulder rock. The word stone comes from Middle English ston (Stone, boulder, pebble) and Old English stān (stone). Various names of the Bowder Stone are recorded, predominantly throughout the mid to late 18th century, these being:
 * Bowders Stone – 1751
 * Bowthor Stone – 1774
 * Bowder-Stone – 1776
 * Boother-stone – 1786
 * Powder-Stone and Bounder-Stone – 1789
 * Bowdar stone – 1794

The usage of the hyphen seems to have been dropped and remains either as two separate words, or as the compound word Bowderstone, which is used by the National Trust on their notice boards and the Omega signage, but not on their website.

Another definition comes from Norse mythology where the name comes from Baldr, the second son of and, and brother of  and.

Origins
The Bowder Stone is old, very old. It comes from the of igneous rock formations, predominantly lavas, in this case, andesite. This dates to around 452 million years ago in the age. The boulder’s location and how it got there has been discussed, debated and argued for however long people have had an opinion about it, or who were interested enough to investigate and educate others of the three possible outcomes: 1) it’s an erratic boulder, 2) it was deposited by a rock fall from Bowder Crag, or 3) the rock fell from the Crag onto receding ice below, and it was slowly lowered into place as the ice continued to melt. However, retired geologist, Dr Alan Smith, discounts this as an option and breaks down the first two options in more detail.



So what exactly is an erratic boulder? This is when an object such as a boulder or rock is moved from one location to another via glacial transport. For example, when the Earth enters a cold phase of the current ice age (yes, we are still in an ice age given there is still ice at the poles) the ice increases and envelopes the landscape, sealing everything within its icy tomb, including whole fells and huge boulders. Ice within a glacier moves, albeit slowly. Now, fast-forward a ridiculously long period of time and the boulder has been transported. As the earth begins to warm and the ice melts, the boulder is deposited, leaving it exactly where it has been transported. This makes sense; a totally feasible and logical explanation. Central Lakeland was covered in a thick sheet of ice, radially moving outwards in all directions. The Borrowdale Valley, was no exception and therefore, it could have been a possibility. However, the Bowder Stone does not show any signs of abrasion or rounding as a result of glacial transport, and the rock type does not match those from upper Borrowdale. Also, due to the lay of the land, and the narrowing of the Borrowdale Valley, known as the Jaws of Borrowdale, the ice would have probably moved it quicker through this narrowing and deposited further down the valley.

If the boulder arrived from a rock fall, how did this happen? This occurrence seems most probable, taking into account where the boulder landed and the form of the Bowder Crag above. The rock from the boulder and the crag above are identical, as are the vertical joint planes, which have the same characteristic shape in their cross-sections. Looking at the rock from the north or south, and you will notice a distinctly rectangular, almost diamond-like shape. At some point in history, there was a major failure in the rock, causing a massive amount of rock to break away from the crag face. This event resulted in thousands of fragments of many sizes tumbling down the crag slope, the largest of which have remained in their current position ever since. Some human intervention has ultimately removed those that were in the way, but for the most part the debris field on the slope suggests that the fragments from Bowder Crag have landed more or less exactly where rocks of varying sizes would land; the largest with the most momentum at the bottom, the smaller with less momentum nearer the top. This process is called fall sorting.



How it landed is one of interest. Initially, you might think it defies logic, especially as it appears to be balancing on the narrowest point, but as the stone is symmetrically balanced along its north-south line, the chances of it moving are extremely slim. It would seem that its sheer weight alone helps to keep it in place, and the only thing that would possibly move it is another boulder of similar size colliding with it. There have been no other boulders like the Bowder Stone fall from the crag above, however, there is evidence of smaller additions to the upper section of the slope.

When this rock failure occurred is difficult to determine with any certainty. A probable timeframe would set it around the 13,500 to 10,000 years ago based on what is already known about the huge ice sheet in the Borrowdale Valley during the latter phases of the much longer glacial period, which started 2.4 million years ago. The latter phase of the Pleistocene is known as the to British geologists, which lasted between 115,000-11,700 years ago. This, along with what is known about the landscape in general, how the fells of the Lake District were formed, and in particular, the very specific vertical joint planes of Bowder Crag, determines the most possible outcome. The key is how the rock was formed during the Ordovician age.



When lava flowed from a volcanic eruption, it cooled down and produced these vertical joint planes, which over millions of years stood the test of time. However, throughout the Pleistocene period, including the last glacial period (Devensian), there were alternating periods of glacial advance and retreat. The last return of glacial conditions began with the period (known as the Loch Lomond Stadial in Britain) between 12,900 - 11,700 years ago. This repeated thawing and refreezing, and the scraping and steepening of the Crag by glacial movement down the valley probably resulted in the weakening of these joints in the rock. Water ingress, freezing and expansion would have caused structural weakening within the rock and it would only have been a matter of time, with the right conditions, when the rock failure occurred.

Joseph Pocklington
The land in which the boulder sits was once owned by Joseph Pocklington (1736-1817), a wealthy man who owned large estates across Keswick and the Borrowdale Valley. He was the second son of William and Elizabeth Pocklington, from Newark, Nottinghamshire. As an upper-class, educated bachelor, he was used to the finer things in life, his every whim catered for by a retinue of servants. He found a love of Keswick, Derwentwater and the beautiful vale in which they occupy after frequent trips during the 1770s, eventually deciding to settle there. He built multiple properties, the first being a two-storey mansion on Vicar’s Island. This is one of the four main islands on Derwentwater, which was briefly home to 16th century Bavarian, Daniel Hochstetter, brought over by the Company of Mines Royal to smelt copper ore. Pocklington purchased the island for the sum of £300 and made the unpopular decision to name it after himself, the imaginative Pocklington’s Island, much to the annoyance of the local population. To understand his early pioneering days is to understand his eccentricities and the kind of gentleman he was.

Although his stewardship there was relatively short in the island’s long and interesting history, he built further unwelcomed additions; there was a church with timber nave, a porter's lodge, a boathouse, and on the southern shore, Fort Joseph, which housed a battery of brass cannon. The somewhat contentious addition that caused a stir amongst his contemporaries was the Druid stone circle. This was modelled on the nearby stone circle of Castlerigg, proclaimed by Pocklington to be a new archaeological discovery. It was nothing more than one of his many follies. It was no surprise that he was awarded the unfortunate epithet King Pocky, a term still in use today for Derwentwater's regatta. Today, this island is known as Derwent Island, a true gem of the Lake District, with fine gardens surrounded by mature trees, and open to visitors for a limited five days a year via booking only.

His love of building, which he believed improved the local area, continued with Derwent Bank in Portinscale (1784-85), and Barrow House (1787) near Ashness, his most lavish at that point. This was his summer residence until he retired there after selling his island retreat to Lieutenant Colonel Peachy in 1796. Barrow House is now the Independent Hostel building. Standing in front of the building it is easy to see why Pocklington chose this particular spot, even with an expanse of trees partially obscuring the view, in the days of his residency the grounds directly in front of the mansion would probably have offered wider, open views across Derwentwater. The 37 metre (122 feet) waterfall to the rear of the property was 'improved' by Pocklington, embellished in such a way that the water's course was diverted through physical labour, in a bid to provide a better view of the cascade through the mansion's windows. Archaeologist and illustrator, William Gell, who was no supporter of Pocklington's whimsical features, called the falls "really grand," a surprising gesture considering he, like his contemporaries Coleridge and Southey, had hardly a nice word to say about him. This created a tranquil cascade that is soothing even to this day in all its slightly overgrown glory, and probably reason why Pocklington referred to his home as Cascade House.

Pocklington was an eccentric that spent a great deal of time and money expanding his estates and building architectural ideals that some of his contemporaries disliked, however, this did not deter his next shrewd plan to create a gimmick that would eventually bring thousands of people flocking to this one inconspicuous place: the site of the Bowder Stone. Having bought the land in 1798, he was quick to utilise the boulder as an attraction, clearing away many of the smaller rocks. According to William Green's The Tourists New Guide of 1819, Pocklington's removing of the the "walls with which it was formerly encumbered, made it a capital painter’s study." These walls were added to make a sheepfold, built up to the boulder, providing the sheep with some form of protection from the elements. The Bowderstone Cottage was originally built, and the first ladder erected, for the purpose of tourism. Its picturesque setting meant that visitors could ascend the steps to take in unobstructed views of the valley, as seen in old postcards depicting the boulder with open, treeless views. Today, the views are still impressive, but nature has now enclosed the site, limiting the views to the upper reaches of the nearby fells.

Pocklington saw great potential for the site. His Georgian contemporaries, greeted by the lady tour guide living in the cottage, were shown round with lustre, revealing the site’s wonders, beholden to the boulder’s charm and magnificence. In those days, tourism in the Lake District did not exist on the scale as it does today, however, tourist guidebooks were becoming more and more popular during the latter half of 18th century, and certainly through the 19th century, providing greater detail and encouraging people to explore the beauty of what the Lakes had to offer. This site remained established as a popular destination for those travelling to Keswick and the surrounding areas well into the 20th century.

A whole article could be devoted to this interesting character who, written into our history, afforded an impression of someone that did what he wanted simply because he could afford to do so. The antiquarian history and travel guidebooks will tell you of his lavish lifestyle and his questionable decisions regarding architectural design; a man of no taste whatsoever. His contemporaries were probably a little harsh at times, but this did not deter his keenness to stamp his mark in this Lakeland setting over two hundred years ago. Whilst not all of his creations survive to this day, his mansions and, of course, his modest little stone cottage by that "immense fragment of rock" have stood the test of time, and will do so, it is hoped, for generations to come.

Bowderstone Cottage
The cottage was lived in by several people over many decades, the first tenant of which there is little information. Who this lady guide was is intriguing. What is her story, her background? Even her decision to take on this role, probably for a roof over her head and a modest wage has some merit of curiosity. Installed by Pocklington to usher passer-by towards the boulder and, more than likely in exchange for an appropriate fee, it seems she would have furnished the listener with suitably interesting facts. When Pocklington died in 1817, others residents of the cottage carried on this tradition. The next was John Raven, who seemed an unusual fellow, set in his ways but with plentiful character is described by William Green in his second volume of The Tourist's New Guide: This house is the summer's residence of John Raven, who, on the traveller's appearance, commences an exordium preparatory to the presentation of a written paper, specifying the weight and dimensions of the stone, of which, in some seasons, he makes a profitable trade. John is a hardy man; for, in the severest weather, though more than eighty years of age, he exposes his bare scalp, and the silver grey hairs which scantily supply its borders, while on the watch for customers. His hardness of hearing makes it impossible to communicate any thing to him but by means of pantomime. The movement of the hand towards the pocket, is an act John understands as well as any member of the fraternity to which he belongs. This miserable man, blind to all the charms of surrounding nature, and to all nature's images, excepting that of the King, can have few enjoyments, being generally left alone in the house, even at night. In the day time, during business hours, the stone is visited by two young women, who are hardly more competent to furnish useful information than their grandsire. Raven's dove-like wife, who died a few years ago, was a shrewd and civil woman.



An advertisement from March 1831 shows the next resident guide as being Mary Caradus, who: "'begs leave to acquaint the Ladies and Gentlement visiting the Lakes and Mountains near Keswick, that she continues at the Bowder Stone House, and attends on all Parities desirous of seeing and examining that immense Fragment of Rock, supposed to be the largest in the World, and which resembles a ship upon its keel.'"

Mary, and her husband, Thomas, had three children: Thomas, Ann, and Mary. While Thomas was working in Honister slate mine, Mary was the guide at the boulder. It is here a visitor book was made available to sign, and record their presence at the top. Mary was well known for her hospitality. When she died in 1833, their daughter, also Mary, continued as guide in much the same vein as her mother. She married John Thompson in 1824 at Crosthwaite, and so the name on the advertisement changed from Mary Caradus to Mary Thompson. At some point a gate was added to the bottom of the ladder to prevent interested passers-by from ascending without paying a modest fee. Mary Thompson died in 1890 at the age of 86 years, having spent her entire life at Bowderstone Cottage. She left a legacy of children, grandchildren and great grandchildren, all who attended her funeral. She was described as having "scarce a wrinkle on her face; so comely were her looks that she was more 46 than 86."



Mary and John’s daughter, Elizabeth, was living at the cottage with her husband, William Weightman, also a slate quarryman. They had two children, Thompson and John William, the former who married and returned to the cottage after the First World War. When they passed on the Pepper family were the last to reside here. Each of these families have their own stories, lost to history for the most part. However, it must have been an unusual life, living in a small cottage in an isolated stretch of the valley between Grange and Rosthwaite. But it was a well trodden route over the years, the gravel path we see today once being the carriage route through that part of the valley.

Visitors continued well into the 20th century. During the 1920s, the cottage served as a tearoom and souvenir shop, selling items such as engravings,, and penknives. After a period of dereliction, the cottage came into the care of the National Trust, who leased it to the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club, using it from 1966 as a bothy (rudimentary hut), which is perfectly situated for the various rock faces along Bowder Crag.

Mock chapel / hermitage
In addition to the cottage, Pocklington installed the Druid stone and built a mock chapel, which sits prominently a few metres to the south of the boulder, although the latter has long since disappeared as its former use. Strangely, for someone who recorded all his buildings and the finances associated with them, there is surprisingly no written record of the chapel other than Pocklington’s own engraving. The present day building, known as the hermitage, is also owned by the National Trust, and like the cottage, it is used as a climbing hut. The chapel very probably stood on the same footprint, or at least very near, the site of the second, smaller climbing hut.

Rock climbing
The Bowder Stone is an attraction in its own right, but it is also used by dexterous climbers to practice specific moves. On the eastern underside of the boulder (the side nearest the path) there may be visible chalk marks in the cracks and holes made by climbers as they attempt somewhat challenging manoeuvres. The day these photos were taken, two people engaged in nimble bouldering techniques, which to the non-contortionist, looked physically impossible. The use of padded mats provided much needed cushioning when the manoeuvre was not successful. The adroit abilities of outdoor sports enthusiasts are impressive to watch, especially when clinging on to vertical rock faces with nothing more than a fingertip’s grip and a hefty dose of adrenaline.



Parking
There is a tiered car park with a pay and display machine. There is a sign for the car park on the opposite side of the road, as the entrance is located on a bend. The road to the car park is single track and fairly steep. There is only one way in and out, so be prepared to meet oncoming vehicles at busy periods. Their car park is not large, although the National Trust publishes as so on their website, saying it can accommodate upwards of 60 vehicles. The surface is rough with some very low-level protruding (smooth) rocks, which will not be an issue driving over, although it is a little bumpy in places. National Trust members can simply scan their membership card and park for free. Remember to place the ticket on the dashboard. Non-members will have to pay.

The entrance to the car park is located at:
 * NY 25300 16877
 * NY 25300 16877

Photo gallery
A gallery of photos used in this article, and many others not included can be seen at Bowder Stone/Gallery.